Cracked, sunken or dusty garage floor? We break out the old slab, build a solid base and pour a new floor that holds up.
Garage floor concrete is a new slab for your garage in Laredo, TX. We prepare the ground, pour, finish, cut the joints and let it cure, so the floor carries your car and your tools without breaking up.
Most calls start with an old floor that's cracked across the middle, sunk near the door or chipping into dust. The fix is usually a new slab, and how that slab turns out comes down to the mix and how well the crew places, finishes and cures it. That's the part I watch closest, because it decides the surface you'll live with.
The price moves with the size of the garage, whether the old slab has to be broken out and hauled off, how much base work the ground needs and what goes under and on top of the new floor. The schedule turns on the weather, the cure before you can park on it and whether the city requires a permit. Your written estimate puts each part on its own line.
A new garage floor looks fine on day one almost no matter how it was poured. These are the things that show up a few seasons later, and how we handle each one.
The subgrade, the ground the slab sits on, carries the whole floor. Raking loose dirt level and pouring on top is the most common shortcut we see, and a floor poured that way settles right along with the dirt. We dig out the soft material and pack the base before any concrete goes in.
Concrete shrinks as it dries, and it's going to crack somewhere. Control joints are straight grooves we cut into the slab so it cracks along those lines instead of across the middle where your car parks. Cut them late or skip them, and the cracks pick their own spot.
The timing of finishing, cutting joints and curing matters as much as the pour itself. Curing is the wait while the concrete stays damp and gains strength, and rushing it leaves a weaker top. Any crew you're comparing should be able to tell you their plan for pour day.
Here's how a garage floor goes with us, from the first call to the day I hand it back to you.
Call (956) 508-9209 or use the form, and tell us the address, roughly how big the garage is and when you'd like the work done. I'll set a time to come take a look.
I come out myself, measure the garage and ask what the floor will carry, whether that's two cars, a workshop or a heavy toolbox. You get a written estimate with each part of the work on its own line.
If the job needs a permit, we take care of it with the city, and the city allows up to 21 days to review it, so that time comes before pour day. Then we prep the base, pour, finish and start the cure.
Before we pack up, I walk the finished floor with you. I'll tell you when it's ready for foot traffic and when you can park on it, because driving on it too early can damage new concrete.
We set the forms so the floor falls slightly toward the garage door, so water off your car or a hose runs out instead of back toward the house. Before we pour, I'll go over with you what goes under the slab, because once the concrete covers that layer, it can't be changed.
On hot days we time the pour for the cooler hours, and nobody on our crew adds water to make the mix easier to work. That keeps the floor strong instead of leaving a top that wears into dust later on. It sometimes means an early start, and I think that's worth it.
The floor is often only part of the job. If you want the concrete leading up to the garage to look like more than plain gray, ask about decorative concrete. And if your garage sits on a slope where the ground beside the slab needs holding back, we also build concrete retaining walls.
A smooth troweled floor sweeps clean but gets slick when wet. A broom finish, a light texture dragged across for grip, handles water better. In most garages I'd keep it smooth and brush the strip by the door.
If the budget gets tight, base work is the last thing I'd cut. Nobody sees it on day one, but a fancy finish on a bad base cracks anyway, so we'd drop an extra before skimping underneath.
We reply to every call and form within one business day. I come out to measure the garage and ask how you'll use it, then you get a free written estimate with each part on its own line, and there's no obligation to go ahead. It helps to have the address, the garage size and your preferred timing ready.
(956) 508-9209The City of Laredo uses a building permit to check that work is safe and follows zoning and building codes. Whether your garage floor needs one depends on the job, and the city's Building Development Services can answer that before work starts. When it does, we pull it as your hired contractor, because a homeowner who pulls it is treated as the contractor on the project.
Once the permit is issued, keep it displayed so the inspector can find your house easily. Much of the ground in Webb County is clay that shrinks when it dries and swells when it gets wet. Under a garage, that movement shows up as cracks and a low corner by the door, which is why the base gets so much of our time.
We're based in Laredo and do this same work across Laredo and the cities around it. Most of the garage floors we see are attached garages on homes, plus floors for small businesses that need a solid slab for vehicles or equipment.
I learned concrete from my dad, setting forms and pulling screed boards on his jobs from the time I was a teenager. I started this business in 2021. I come out to look at every job myself, and our crew does the work with me on site, so the person who wrote your estimate is there when the concrete shows up.
We're fully licensed and insured. I'd rather tell you no, or send you to an engineer, than pour a floor I don't believe in, and you'll know exactly what you're paying for before we start. Your satisfaction, guaranteed.
When you're ready, call (956) 508-9209 or send us the form and I'll come out to see your garage.
Stained color, stamped patterns or a sharp border can tie the driveway approach and walks to the look of your house instead of leaving them plain.
Sloped lots can push dirt and runoff toward a new slab, and a poured wall keeps that soil where it belongs and away from your garage.
We pour garage floors for homes and small businesses in Laredo and nearby. If you're not sure we come out to your street, give us a call and ask.
We price each garage floor after seeing it, because the size, tearing out the old slab and how much base work the ground needs set most of the cost. Extras like a moisture barrier or a decorative finish add to it. Your estimate lists each of those on its own line, so you can see where the money goes.
Empty the garage completely and keep the cars out from the day we start. Plan to stay off the new floor until it has cured, and I'll tell you when it's ready to walk on and when you can park on it. If a drain or line runs under the floor, tell me at the first visit.
During the cooler part of the day, and one concrete maker's hot weather guide even suggests night pours to limit the slab's exposure. Heat speeds up how fast cement reacts and how fast fresh concrete loses moisture, and that can cost the floor quality. That's why our hot-day pours go in the cooler hours.
Because extra water can weaken the slab and shorten its life. One concrete maker's hot weather bulletin says crews shouldn't be allowed to add water to cool the concrete or make it easier to work. When you compare bids, ask each crew how they keep the mix workable in the heat.
A packed base goes under the slab, and many floors also get a moisture barrier to keep ground moisture from coming up through the concrete. A national concrete slab guide says plain plastic sheeting, used under slabs in the past, doesn't fully meet the standard for that layer. I'll go over which material goes under yours before we pour.
Call (956) 508-9209 or send the form, and on the first visit show me where water sits or the cracks run, since that tells me what your base needs.
